Ballybunion finds itself among Ireland's top golf spots

Nov. 18, 2002 By David Brice Special to GolfWeb

If there is one household name among Ireland's bountiful selection of championship links courses, it is unquestionably Ballybunion.

Universally acknowledged as being among the world's greatest, Ballybunion is one of those gems lucky enough to have been built on a magnificent stretch of coastline which must have been predestined by some higher authority to be used for nothing other than an exceptional links course.

Many golfers play Ballybunion as a tune-up for the British Open. (Provided to GolfWeb)

Whether this was truly understood or not back in 1896 when Ballybunion's founding fathers laid out the initial nine holes is a debatable point. The terrain was, however, very much appreciated by architect Tom Simpson when he arrived there in 1926 to improve upon the original Ballybunion and extend it to a full 18 holes.

Little of significance has been done to change Simpson's design of three quarters of a century ago and Ballybunion lives on, gracefully accepting the accolades which continue to be bestowed upon it.

Situated in a remote corner of County Kerry, close to the Shannon estuary and amidst some of the largest sand dunes you are ever likely to encounter, Ballybunion presents a fascinating combination of raw, wild beauty and as stiff a challenge as you are likely to encounter anywhere.

Add to this an intriguing -- if not complex -- personality as the course runs up, over and through the dunes, and you have a layout presenting a new test on virtually every hole. Boring is not a word that could ever be used to describe Ballybunion.

Ballybunion's design takes advantage of its seaside location. (Provided to GolfWeb)

The first few holes, all relatively straightforward, belie the examination that commences on the sixth as a frighteningly narrow approach takes you to a plateaued green -- and the adventure among the dunes begins in earnest.

From here on be prepared for Ballybunion's personality to come to the fore with a vengeance. The course confounds and confuses with a complexity that makes even the thinking golfer think again.

The seventh hole runs its entire length along the shoreline and may be one of the best par 4s you will ever play. The eighth takes you back down the dunes and is a deceivingly short par 3, ready to punish severely any shot missing the green. The test continues without let-up.

With some heartache you may reach the world-famous 11th hole, one of the greatest two-shot holes anywhere in the world.

As you stand on the tee with the waves of the Atlantic Ocean pounding below, enormous sand dunes to the left and the fairway dropping away in front, any intimidation you may feel is completely understandable. The 11th green is perfectly visible, directly in front -- a windswept plateau overlooking and protected by that mighty ocean.

The 16th and 17th hole are no less brilliant, and the 15th, a near-magical par 3, is ready, willing and able to test the very best.

Tom Watson was the first of the American greats to visit regularly. Byron Nelson, Jack Nicklaus, Phil Mickleson and Tiger Woods have all followed in Watson's footsteps and fallen for Ballybunion's charms. The course has become a regular warm-up routine for American golfers as they prepare for each year's British Open, the ultimate test of links golf.

Unfortunately, fame brings with it popularity, and Ballybunion has grown to become the most-requested course in all Ireland by visiting golfers. Demand outstrips the availability of visitor times by a wide margin each year, making it advisable to book a full year ahead to avoid disappointment. It may seem like a long wait but like everyone else -- you will probably agree it was worth it.

©2002 Golf International, Inc. All Rights Reserved.