Grand old Montrose provides stunning links experience

Nov. 3, 2003 By David Brice Special to GolfWeb

Golfers who visit St. Andrews and venture across the bridge spanning the Firth of Tay into the county of Angus are typically limited to those with starting times on the links at Carnoustie. It's usually a six-hour trip or so, composed of a half-hour drive each way, four hours playing the course and an hour in the bar at the Carnoustie Hotel.

If these poor souls knew what other golfing treasures are located just a few minutes away from Carnoustie, they would have planned on spending a lot longer here.

Ironically, several of these gems were passed on the short, half-hour journey from St. Andrews to Carnoustie -- Monifieth, Downfield and Panmure being among the most notable. But the pride of Angus' golf lies a further 18 miles beyond Carnoustie in the seaside burgh of Montrose.

Montrose Medal Links is the fifth oldest golf course in the world, dating from 1562. It is a public links in the very best Scottish tradition.

Even as you approach the course from the main road, the feeling is almost inspirational -- and two thoughts immediately cross your mind. The first is that you are about to play one of the game's most historic courses, a humbling idea. The second thought is that you hope this incessant wind dies down before you tee off.

Historic the course is, so get used to the idea. As for the wind dying -- no chance. This is the way links golf is supposed to be, and an unsheltered exposure to the cruel North Sea means the wind never dies down at Montrose -- another idea you'll have to get used to.

And that very much describes Montrose: It is what it is -- an honest-to-goodness classic links, with no fancy airs and graces, no artificial hype, no snobbery. This is real links golf of the highest order. It may not be for everyone; but for the true aficionado, it will be one of the best you will ever have the pleasure of playing.

There are actually two layouts here, The Medal, measuring a shade less than 6,500 yards, and the more placid -- and much shorter -- Broomfield Course. The star attraction is the Medal Course, host to numerous major events including The Scottish Professional Championship and The Scottish Amateur Championship. It's also used as a British Open qualifier when The Open is held at Carnoustie.

This is the course with real teeth -- and all of the history and reputation. Thankfully it has escaped any major changes over the centuries, and the layout played today is very much the way it has always been.

Montrose Medal Links offers golfers two courses to test their mettle. (Provided to GolfWeb)

The course follows the line of mountainous sand dunes that run along the shore for the first eight holes. After the turn and another two holes, the course darts inland, carving its way through dense gorse before returning to the seaside for the closing holes. This variation on the usual out and back layout makes for an interesting change and adds to the variety of challenges. With Montrose there is never any tedium -- of that you may be assured.

What you will find throughout is a complete arsenal of links defenses. The wind is merciless from start to finish, and never on more than two successive holes will you find it blowing from the same direction.

The undulations on fairways and greens are often pronounced then unexpectedly subtle. The waist-high dune grasses present rough that seems rougher than the Good Lord may have intended, consuming golf balls with a voracious appetite. Then there is that trademark hazard of links courses, gorse -- beautiful to view from afar, but disastrous for any errant shot.

Combine all of this with a few raised greens and a plentiful supply of deep pot bunkers, sometimes with as many as six defending a single green, and you have Montrose Medal Course, a classic links with a bite.

There are three golf clubs that share the wondrous links at Montrose -- the Royal Montrose, the Caledonia and the Mercantile. Each maintains a clubhouse adjacent to the course, offering good Scottish hospitality -- so take you pick and relive the thrills and disappointments of your round over a dram or two.

If you are going to Scotland to play golf, this is one experience that should not be missed. Montrose may lack some of the glamour and fame attached to others, but you will never find another quite as deserving of star billing.

For more suggestions on including Montrose and other Angus courses on your golf trip, click here.

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